Flor

1. Flor is a benevolent film-forming yeast which, in a winemaking context, can form on the top of partially-filled barrels of maturing sherry, protecting the wine from oxidising. It is typified by those yeasts native to Jerez.

2. A by-product of the action of flor yeast is the chemical acetaldeyde, which gives fino-style sherries their distinctive "salty" aroma. The presence of acetaldehyde causes the "sherry-like" nose of some unfortified wines which are made using flor or flor-like yeasts.

3. Flor feeds on glycerine, polyphenols, higher alcohols and volatile acidity.

4. It only develops in wine which is between 14.5 and 16.0% abv (and not, as per legend, due to a magical, ineffable quality in the Andalucian air). It forms on all sherry pre-fortification, so even some Oloroso Seco styles may have some flor characteristics.

5. It is used in the production of Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado and Palo Cortado. In the case of Amontillado, the yeast either die away naturally after consuming all the glycerol, gradually exposing the wine to oxygen, or the wine is moved to a different solera mid-process. Palo Cortado makes use of the second technique only and so can be fuller-bodied than Amontillado.

(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)

Vins Doux Naturels

Here are 5 essential facts about VDNs.

1. Despite their name, VDNs are not naturally sweet. They are fortified mid-ferment (at about 15-18% abv) to arrest the fermentation process, as is port, a technique known as mutage.

2. VDNs are generally either Muscat- or Grenache-based.

3. The most common Muscat grapes are Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains (used for Muscat de Beaumes de Venise from the Rhone and Muscat de Saint-Jean de Minervois from Languedoc-Rousillon) and Muscat of Alexandria (used in Muscat de Rivesaltes, also from L-R).

4. Grenache (or sometimes Grenache Blanc) is used to make Rasteau from the Rhone and Banyuls and Rivesaltes from L-R.

5. Grenache-based VDNs can be aged oxidatively. The terms Rancio, Ambre and Tuile all indicate oxidatively-aged VDNs. Hors d'age indicates a wine that has been aged for at least 5 years.

A contrasting style is vin de liqueur or mistelles, made by adding grape spirit to grape must (the process known as mutage). Fortification occurs pre-ferment, meaning there are no secondary fermentation products and the final product tastes more sprirt dominated than VDNs. E.g. Pineau des Charentes.

Rivesaltes
(L-R, French Catalonia, near Perpignan)

Banyuls-sur-Mer
(L-R, French Catalonia, near Perpignan)

Beaumes de Venise
(Rhone, near Carpentras)

Vaison la Romaine
(Rhone, near Rasteau)

(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)

English Wine Producers Tasting 2009

This annual tasting at the end of April coincided with English Wine Week, a campaign started some five years ago to promote English wines and vineyards. The sporting location was different - Stamford Bridge instead of Lord's this year - but the wines were broadly as I remembered them from 2008. In general terms, the sparkling wines stood head and shoulders above the still ones, the whites were patchy and there were next to no stand-out reds.

The highlights of the tasting for me were:

Chapel Down Brut Vintage Reserve NV - mostly small bubbles, crisp nose of stainless steel minerality and gooseberries, crisp/acidic/fresh on palate with a nice level of fizz; slightly synthetic aftertaste

Camel Valley 'Cornwall' Brut 2006 - Chardonnay-ish nose and palate, light malolactic, light, non-aggressive bubbles; bit of residual sweetness on the finish

Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2001 - mixture of large and small bubbles, very creamy nose, richness on palate - a foody wine


The future of English wine certainly seems to be sparkling. There are some pitfalls which need to be avoided, such as over-chaptalisation (Three Choirs?) and uneven bubbles which fade quickly (Bookers?) Trying to imitate Champagne should also be avoided (Nyetimber - especially their Classic Cuvee?)

The down-side of committing to a future of sparkling wine production is that it is much more capital-intensive than still winemaking. For this reason Stephen Spurrier says he is considering a joint venture with an established champagne house, Duval-Leroy (see article). Maybe this is the way forward for start-up English wineries. Convincing French champagne houses that they need an English producer on their books may well be a difficult task though...

Info Mine: The Carbon Cycle

Here is a quick 5-step look at the natural cycle of winemaking (with thanks to David Bird and with distant memories of GCSE science).

1. The leaves of the vine absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. The roots absorb water from the soil. These raw materials are converted into sugars by means of photosynthesis. The sugars are stored in the vine's grapes.

2. At this point the grapes are picked. The sugars are then converted into alcohol by the process of fermentation. Fermentation is kick-started by yeast, which is present in the atmoshere, on the skins of grapes and - in a winemaking context - absorbed into the walls, ceilings and surfaces of a winery.


3. Eventually - long after most wine would hopefully have been drunk - the wine will be attacked by bacteria and will turn into vinegar.
4. The vinegar will itself decompose, releasing carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

5. The cycle starts all over again!

Wines of Chile Syrah & Sparkling Wines Tasting

The purpose of this tasting on Monday was to showcase two up and coming Chilean wine sectors. Syrah is increasingly being touted as Chile's Next Big Thing, especially that coming from more northern regions like Elqui and Limari. Sparkling wine is being produced in increasing volumes, although I have been underwhelmed by Chilean fizz in the past and this tasting didn't change my mind.

The northern Syrahs, though, were lovely. A lot of Chilean Central Valley wines are extremely fruit-driven. Too much so in my opinion, although alcoholic fruit juice appeals to the mass market, which is what Chile until now has concentrated on. Elqui and Limari, however, seem to be producing Syrahs with fruit flavours that, although present in barrel loads, are balanced by the wines' acidity and even have a touch of old world-like austerity to them at times.


The Elqui Valley (above) is Chile's northermost wine producing region and until recently was known more as the home of Pisco than for wine. It is sun-baked semi-desert, being the gateway to the Atacama, and has large day-night temperature variations. The clear, starry nights have made Elqui one of the best places for astronomy and there are several observatories dotted around the valley. Annual rainfall is just 70 mm (compared to over 700 in Bordeaux, for example). The most important moderating climatic influence is the 'Camanchaca Fog' which rises from the river in the mornings, enveloping the vines in a blanket of cool air.

For under a tenner, Mayu's 2006 Reserva was excellent value (Guy Anderson Wines) as was the Falerina 2006 Reserva (Great Western Wine), both from Elqui. Limari seems to be where the larger players have set up - Concha y Toro, Santa Rita and Undurraga all produce good Syrahs for around £10, although rather more commercial in style than those from the Elqui Valley.

Wines of Portugal Tasting

This took place at Lord's Cricket Ground yesterday. I am always pleasantly surprised by Portuguese wines, although they have a tough time in the UK market, especially in the on-trade which often finds it hard to find a home for them. This is probably due in part to our newfound love of varietal labelling - Portugal's myriad indigenous varietals (350 apparently, of which around 50 are in regular use) are not very consumer-friendly.

One producer which is managing to make impressive headway is Casa Santos Lima, a family business from just north of Lisbon. An impressive 95% of production is exported (over 3 million bottles annually). Their Arinto, Syrah and Palha-Canas were particularly good for the money.

Other highlights were:

Luis Soares Duarte Perfil Reserva 2005 - indigenous varietals, ruby coloured with concentrated fruit from low yielding old vines (unrepresented in UK)

Wine&Soul Guru White 2007 - an oaked white, also old vines, with a lively zing to it (Corney & Barrow)

Wine & Joy (Quinta da Falorca) - whole range was good, with particularly well-priced entry-level wines (armit)

Gambero Rosso tasting with Stephen Spurrier

This took place earlier this week as part of Gambero Rosso's 2009 'road show'. 17 wines were chosen from the GR portfolio and Stephen Spurrier spoke about them in an eloquent yet refreshingly down to earth manner.

Spurrier's tasting notes were formulated off the cuff but were impressively concise. I jotted down a few examples, such as "more than a sparkling wine, a wine that happens to sparkle" (Berlucchi Cellarius Rose 2004); a "sun-filled wine" (GIV F. Candida Frascati 2007); "more Chablis than Sancerre" (Sauvignon Zuc di Volpe); and "bramble and hedgerow vigour" (Barbera in general).

Spurrier also alluded to the divide between old and new world producers regarding regions (old world) versus varietals (new) and left little doubt that he is of the old school in this respect - Chablis, not Chardonnay, and Sancerre, not Sauvignon, if you please.

My highlights from the tutored part of the tasting were:

Cavit Altemasi Brut Trento DOC 2002 - bottle-fermented fizz, 90% Chardonnay, fleshy and soft but dry, light sparkle, would be good with food

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2004 - wild violets, long time in wood (large oak casks, Spurrier suggested), with a hint of Burgundian Pinot Noir

Fontanafredda Vigna La Rosa Barolo DOCG 2004 - a great example of a wine with huge natural fruit concentration, from low-yielding vines (NB 2004 was a v good year for Barolos)

Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2001 - classic Amarone - strong, dark, raisiny fruit with a 'sweet' edge