Argentina's U.S. exports on a winning streak

Published on Decanter.com 16 February 2009 - click here to read.

Argentina’s 2008 wine exports to the U.S. increased by 29% in value and 13% in volume on the previous year, making Argentina the only country to significantly increase its American sales during what proved to be a challenging year for the global wine trade.

These figures, from the U.S. Department of Commerce, revealed that by contrast, Australian exports to the U.S. dropped by 10.5% in value and 8% in volume over the same period. Total wine imports by the U.S. stagnated in 2008.

James Forbes, UK Director of Wines of Argentina, paints a similar picture for Argentinian imports in the UK, which have seen 20 months of consecutive growth in both value and volume terms. He also notes that Argentinian wines are being sold increasingly in the on-trade and the specialist wine sector.

This pull to the premium end of the spectrum suits Argentina well for two reasons. Its wine market is predominantly domestic, with only 17% of wine produced being exported. Producers can therefore sell their lower-end wine at home and concentrate on quality in their export products.

Secondly, the Malbec grape is a marketeer’s dream – easy on the palate, easy to pronounce and, despite its French origins, increasingly becoming synonymous with Argentinian winemaking.

Las Moras Viognier

I had a tasty Argentinian Viognier this weekend from the Tulum Valley, San Juan (the province to the north of Mendoza). Medium-yellow in colour, it has mature stone fruit (apricot) on the palate, with a great thirst-quenching zing. Crisp acidity (6.57 g/l, pH 3.35).

Update 20 October - The above is one of the entry-level varietals, but I see that Las Moras' Alma Mora Malbec is Tom Cannavan's wine of the week (see article). He also recommends the Alma Mora Chardonnay-Viognier. Both are currently half price at The Co-op.

Wines of Argentina Annual UK Tasting 2008

Last week's Wines of Argentina (WoA) tasting at Lord's Cricket Ground predictably showcased 2008 vintage Malbec and Torrontes.

Malbec

Whereas at last year's tasting the focus was on Mendoza, this year's selection was from further afield, both north and south, and included the regions of Salta, Catamarca, La Rioja, San Juan, Neuquen and Rio Negro.

From the north, the star winery was Finca Las Moras (San Juan) - a great unoaked offering from the Tullum Valley, smooth with loads of violets and young red fruit; also a more alcoholic (14% abv) oaked version from the Zonda Valley. If I had to choose, I'd go for the unoaked.

From the south (almost 3,000 km south of San Juan in fact), the oaked sample from NQN Patagonia (Neuquen) was a very dark purple colour, with a nose of raspberries and a hint of rubber, not in a bad way. The palate had an almost sherry-like spiciness. There was also some serious sediment at the end of the bottle.

Torrontés

As for the whites, I was a bit underwhelmed. It may be a personal taste issue but I thought the majority were a bit flabby and lacking in acidity. I actually preferred the wines which had a bit of residual sugar, such as Bodegas Etchart's mid-priced Tardio Torrontés (late harvest). (Note that Torrontés is a descendant of Muscat and, in its best incarnations, has what Jancis Robinson calls a "headily perfumed" character - see article.)

According to James Forbes, UK Director of WoA, Argentinian wine exports to the UK have increased by 37.5% (to USD 44m) over the 18 months to June 2008 (i.e. since to beginning of the UK WoA campaign). The UK still lags significantly behind the US in imports of Argentinian wine, a situation which WoA UK is trying hard to rectify.

Info Mine - Malbec

The Wine Mine Blagging Toolkit - 5 wine nuggets with which to impress your friends...

1. Malbec is one of the 6 grape varieties permitted in red Bordeaux. Its primary function in Bordeaux is in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

2. It is a thin-skinned grape, is darker in colour than Cabernet and has an earthiness on the palate, with touches of spice.

3. Originally from Cahors, Malbec is becoming increasingly identified as the signature Argentinan varietal. Most of the Argentinian plantings of Malbec are in Mendoza, which has the requisite high levels of heat and sun (partly due to its high altitude).

4. Synonyms for Malbec include Auxerrois and Cot Noir (in Cahors) and Pressac.

5. For a good entry-level Malbec check out the offering from Argentinian winery Terrazas de los Andes, retailing at around £7.25.