Friday, 17 October 2008

Prosecco Tasting 2008

The annual Prosecco DOC di Conegliano Valdobbiadene Consorzio tasting took place this week at the Institute of Directors in Pall Mall. Here are some interesting facts I learnt:

1. There are 3,000 growers of the Prosecco grape in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOC region (shown in the photo). The average vineyard size is only 1.5 hectares (ha), meaning a high proportion of producers buy in some or all of the grapes they use.

2. The area of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOC region is about 4,000 ha. Cartizze, a sub-region producing some of the best quality sweeter Proseccos (Prosecci?) is 105 ha. 45-50 million bottles of DOC Prosecco are produced annually, compared to 150 million bottles of non-DOC Prosecco, which is classified as IGT - Indicazione Geografica Tipica (sparkling wines from regions not qualifying for IGT status are not entitled to call themselves Prosecco, even though they are made from the Prosecco grape).

3. Prosecco can be decribed as Brut with up to 15 g/l of residual sugar, above which it becomes Extra Dry.

4. There are 4 main co-operatives in the Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOC region. The Valdobbiadene co-op is called Val D'Oca.

5. The Consorzio has applied to the Italian government for elevation to the highest DOCG status (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). There are currently only 36 DOCG wines in Italy.

6. Almost all Prosecco is non-vintage. The idea is to drink it young!

Armit 20th Anniversary Tasting

Notting Hill merchant Armit marked its 20th anniversary with its 2008 tasting yesterday at Delfina Art Cafe. Their strong French and Italian portfolio is backed up by some interesting New World wines. My highlights were:

Burgundy

Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 2006 - minerals and loads of citrus/pear, long finish with an almost autolytic taste

Mischief & Mayhem Meursault 2006 - lovely rounded fruit, gentle but full in the mouth

Rhone

Andre Brunel Chateauneauf-du-Pape Les Cailloux Rouge 2005 - classic Grenache - dark cherries, chocolate and spice

Germany

Baron Heyl Estate Brudersberg Grand Cru 2006 - a big, viscous trocken from this producer in Rheinhessen which really rolls around your mouth; lowish acidity though

Italy

Valentina Cubi Amarone - there were 2 Amarones, a 1997 and a 2003. I actually preferred the 03, which seemed richer, smoother and with an (even) longer finish. Both were tawny, with a classic nose of raisins and alcohol vapour; coffee, chocolate and dark spices on the palate.

Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili 2003 - light-med tawny colour; 14.5% abv, huge chewy tannins which dried my teeth out, high acidity - too young still? - would be good to taste in 15 years!

Ornellaia 2001 - walnuts and big red fruit (strawberries) on nose, as well as alcohol whiff (14.5%); a bit disappointing on the palate, alcohol masking the flavour a bit

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2000 - 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Still young (average age for Sassicaia is 30 years). Tawny, big aristocratic nose, bit thin on palate?, high acidity, fine sediment, v long finish

Argentina

Nomade Torrontes 2007 - an especially floral, aromatic Torrontes from Cafayate; good acid (compared to other Torrontes I have tasted), although still a bit flabby/watery

NZ

Sauvignons - at the cheaper end, the Momo Sauvignon was classic NZ cut grass, greenery, apples; the basic Seresins (07 and 08) were very good (although a little watery on palate?); the Seresin Reserve was great - fresh minerals and a real mouthful of the terroir

Seresin Reserve Chardonnay 1996 - fantastic, deep golden, not too much oak

Seresin Riesling - strong petrol whiff (in a good way) - v typically Riesling-ish