An already much-hyped vintage, 2009 looks set to herald a return to premium wines at premium prices, after the dip in 2008. So far it seems to be agreed that some excellent wines have been made, although quality is perhaps a little more patchy than in 2005, with excessive ripeness and over-extraction being the chief concerns. Alcohol levels are generally high, with 15% abv not uncommon. Producers, especially at the top end, have been slow to release prices and it will be interesting to see how this annual poker game plays out. Robert Parker has handed out a record number of potential top-rankings (his final scores are released only upon bottling) and has said "2009 may turn out to be the finest vintage I have tasted in 32 years of covering Bordeaux".
Following April's UGC tastings in Bordeaux, several producers came to London at the end of April for a vertical tasting of the last 3-4 years. It was immediately obvious that 2009 is a fruit-forward vintage, with lovely approachable primary flavours much in evidence. In some cases tannin levels are lower than in 2005, meaning some of the 09s may not be built for long ageing (which is not to say they won't give great pleasure).
The right bank is unsurprisingly more immediately approachable than the left. Chateau Gazin (Pomerol) has a nose of ripe redcurrants and a tight but ripe, fruit-packed palate. By contrast, the 08 seems a little dilute and more open, and the 07 has less fruit and is more restrained. Chateau Angelus (St Emilion) is purple in colour, with violets, raspberries and bright summer fruits.
On the left bank, Chateau Rauzan-Segla (Margaux) is purple coloured, with violets, raspberries and a surprisingly open, vibrant palate. Chateau Leoville Poyferre (St Julien) is perhaps more typical of Cabernet at this early stage, with tightly packed dark fruit hinting at violets, and a fairly high level of fine tannins. Chateau Pontet-Canet (Pauillac) is ruby coloured, aromatic, delicate, elegant and tannic with bright fresh acidity.
See bordOverview for a useful and frequently-updated list of critics' scores and prices.
