Friday, 16 September 2011
Tuesday, 11 May 2010
Bordeaux 2009
An already much-hyped vintage, 2009 looks set to herald a return to premium wines at premium prices, after the dip in 2008. So far it seems to be agreed that some excellent wines have been made, although quality is perhaps a little more patchy than in 2005, with excessive ripeness and over-extraction being the chief concerns. Alcohol levels are generally high, with 15% abv not uncommon. Producers, especially at the top end, have been slow to release prices and it will be interesting to see how this annual poker game plays out. Robert Parker has handed out a record number of potential top-rankings (his final scores are released only upon bottling) and has said "2009 may turn out to be the finest vintage I have tasted in 32 years of covering Bordeaux".
Following April's UGC tastings in Bordeaux, several producers came to London at the end of April for a vertical tasting of the last 3-4 years. It was immediately obvious that 2009 is a fruit-forward vintage, with lovely approachable primary flavours much in evidence. In some cases tannin levels are lower than in 2005, meaning some of the 09s may not be built for long ageing (which is not to say they won't give great pleasure).
The right bank is unsurprisingly more immediately approachable than the left. Chateau Gazin (Pomerol) has a nose of ripe redcurrants and a tight but ripe, fruit-packed palate. By contrast, the 08 seems a little dilute and more open, and the 07 has less fruit and is more restrained. Chateau Angelus (St Emilion) is purple in colour, with violets, raspberries and bright summer fruits.
On the left bank, Chateau Rauzan-Segla (Margaux) is purple coloured, with violets, raspberries and a surprisingly open, vibrant palate. Chateau Leoville Poyferre (St Julien) is perhaps more typical of Cabernet at this early stage, with tightly packed dark fruit hinting at violets, and a fairly high level of fine tannins. Chateau Pontet-Canet (Pauillac) is ruby coloured, aromatic, delicate, elegant and tannic with bright fresh acidity.
See bordOverview for a useful and frequently-updated list of critics' scores and prices.
Following April's UGC tastings in Bordeaux, several producers came to London at the end of April for a vertical tasting of the last 3-4 years. It was immediately obvious that 2009 is a fruit-forward vintage, with lovely approachable primary flavours much in evidence. In some cases tannin levels are lower than in 2005, meaning some of the 09s may not be built for long ageing (which is not to say they won't give great pleasure).
The right bank is unsurprisingly more immediately approachable than the left. Chateau Gazin (Pomerol) has a nose of ripe redcurrants and a tight but ripe, fruit-packed palate. By contrast, the 08 seems a little dilute and more open, and the 07 has less fruit and is more restrained. Chateau Angelus (St Emilion) is purple in colour, with violets, raspberries and bright summer fruits.
On the left bank, Chateau Rauzan-Segla (Margaux) is purple coloured, with violets, raspberries and a surprisingly open, vibrant palate. Chateau Leoville Poyferre (St Julien) is perhaps more typical of Cabernet at this early stage, with tightly packed dark fruit hinting at violets, and a fairly high level of fine tannins. Chateau Pontet-Canet (Pauillac) is ruby coloured, aromatic, delicate, elegant and tannic with bright fresh acidity.
See bordOverview for a useful and frequently-updated list of critics' scores and prices.
Friday, 30 April 2010
English Wine Producers St George's Day Tasting
The pick of the sparkling wines came from the more "established" producers. Camel Valley from Cornwall (07 Brut), Nyetimber from West Sussex (01 Blanc de Blancs) and Denbies from Surrey (02 Greenfields). All had fairly searing acidity as you would expect and autolysis was pleasantly restrained in favour of some good primary fruit characters, suggesting English sparkling wine is not simply moulding itself in the image of Champagne. There were also some interesting vegetal notes in wines with higher proportions of Pinot Noir.
Prices remain high however, with some sparkling wines nudging £30 retail. The euro exchange rate has pushed prices of Champagne, Cava and Prosecco up over the last 18 months but this is still expensive enough to make consumers think twice before buying. Relying on the novelty aspect of English wine is not a viable long-term strategy and even those consumers who want to buy English wine need to feel they are getting value for money compared to EU and new world alternatives.
The one important and unforgivable negative is that the labels are almost universally awful. With the exception of Chapel Down, which has a smart black and red label design (see pic), the rest really need to pay some attention to presentation. Asking premium prices for English wine is hard enough but when the packaging is so unappealing producers are doing themselves no favours.
Tuesday, 13 April 2010
Wines of Portugal 2010
Went to this today at Lord's, with net practice on the sunny Nursery Ground providing a truly spring-like backdrop. Fairly quiet when I arrived but was filling up by lunchtime. There were themed tables showcasing the Alvarinho, Touriga Nacional and Moscatel grape varieties. The Alvarinho was mostly from the north west - Vinho Verde and the Minho (non-DOP) region - but also some from Lisboa (the new name for Estremadura). The star Alvarinho for me was Quinta dos Loridos' 2008, with good minerality, highish acidity and a refreshingly low 12.5% abv.
Of the Touriga Nacionals, the Pedra Cancela 2008 stood out - dark ruby coloured with ripe red fruit flavours (raspberries with some violet), fine, grippy tannins and fairly high acidity (pic below).
Sarah Ahmed did talks "every hour, on the hour" on various aspects of Portuguese wine. I saw one on the Dao and food matching. Sarah mentioned that the high tannin and acidity mix in the Dao makes for particularly good foody wines. She described the Dao as rugged and mountainous, with elevation ranging between 200m and 900m, large diurnal temperature variation and high rainfall which means vines build up good reserves for the dry, hot summers.
I am always impressed by Portuguese wines but they still account for less than 1% of the UK off trade wine market (and most of that is Mateus Rose!) The wine-drinking public has no real image of Portuguese wine (positive or negative) and the indigenous grape varieties are perceived as hard to get to grips with. Hopefully some of their generic marketing efforts will pay off and the public will wake up to what are increasingly impressive wines. The Douro is maybe the most exciting area, and probably has the best potential for branding, on the back of consumers' regognition of Port.
Of the Touriga Nacionals, the Pedra Cancela 2008 stood out - dark ruby coloured with ripe red fruit flavours (raspberries with some violet), fine, grippy tannins and fairly high acidity (pic below).
Sarah Ahmed did talks "every hour, on the hour" on various aspects of Portuguese wine. I saw one on the Dao and food matching. Sarah mentioned that the high tannin and acidity mix in the Dao makes for particularly good foody wines. She described the Dao as rugged and mountainous, with elevation ranging between 200m and 900m, large diurnal temperature variation and high rainfall which means vines build up good reserves for the dry, hot summers.
I am always impressed by Portuguese wines but they still account for less than 1% of the UK off trade wine market (and most of that is Mateus Rose!) The wine-drinking public has no real image of Portuguese wine (positive or negative) and the indigenous grape varieties are perceived as hard to get to grips with. Hopefully some of their generic marketing efforts will pay off and the public will wake up to what are increasingly impressive wines. The Douro is maybe the most exciting area, and probably has the best potential for branding, on the back of consumers' regognition of Port.
Thursday, 8 April 2010
Some Italy wine facts
Revising Italian wines for an upcoming exam. Here are some interesting facts:
- Pinot Grigio accounts for ONE THIRD of all wine sales in the UK off trade (supermarkets etc).
- The quality seal DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) was introduced in the early 1980s in an attempt to create a super-DOC status. The requirements to qualify for DOCG are the same as DOC, with the added hurdle of a blind tasting carried out by the Ministry of Agriculture.
- Prosecco is a grape variety not a region (the region, recently conferred DOCG status, is Conegliano-Valdobbiadene). The Italians were so worried about other countries selling wine bearing the name Prosecco that, in a bid to protect it (and in a wonderful application of EU beaurocracy), they have just renamed the Prosecco grape "Glera" and the region itself "Prosecco".
- Pinot Grigio accounts for ONE THIRD of all wine sales in the UK off trade (supermarkets etc).
- The quality seal DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) was introduced in the early 1980s in an attempt to create a super-DOC status. The requirements to qualify for DOCG are the same as DOC, with the added hurdle of a blind tasting carried out by the Ministry of Agriculture.
- Prosecco is a grape variety not a region (the region, recently conferred DOCG status, is Conegliano-Valdobbiadene). The Italians were so worried about other countries selling wine bearing the name Prosecco that, in a bid to protect it (and in a wonderful application of EU beaurocracy), they have just renamed the Prosecco grape "Glera" and the region itself "Prosecco".
Tuesday, 30 March 2010
The Sampler
Visited The Sampler (link) in Islington a couple of days ago. A fantastic concept, especially their Icons selection which lets you taste a range of fine wine which most pockets would not stretch to. The wines below are currently on show.
Reserve de Gassac 2007 (£9.90 per btl) - citrus, floral notes and a savoury finish from this Viognier/Marsanne blend
Araldica Barbera d'Asti 2007 (£8.20) - high acidity, red cherries, sweet spice, hint of choc, slightly jammy
Chateau Musar 2002 (£21.50) - dried/cured meats and leather on nose, huge red fruit flavours (dried and fresh), raisins, cured meats, leather, vegetal/leafy, goes on and on
Gilles Barge Cote-Rotie Cuvee du Plessy 2003 (£36.00) - red cherry, dark savoury spice on nose but less on palate, some tertiary (leather, vegetal)
Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1996 (£90.00) - finegrained tannins, highish acidity, lovely long finish, quite 'Burgundian' in style
Chateau Cissac 1978 - savoury, earthy, concentrated coffee nose-, with dried fruit and raisins on palate, but somewhat dominated by developmental characters (meat-leather-coffee) - I have tried a 1995 Cissac which was past it so am amazed that the '78 is still drinking so well
- Chateau Musar 1970
- Chateau Musar 1977
- Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1985
- Paternina Conde de Los Andes 1955 Rioja Gran Reserva
- Torbreck RunRig 1999
- Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1961
- Chave Hermitage 1998
- Pichon Baron 1964
Reserve de Gassac 2007 (£9.90 per btl) - citrus, floral notes and a savoury finish from this Viognier/Marsanne blend
Araldica Barbera d'Asti 2007 (£8.20) - high acidity, red cherries, sweet spice, hint of choc, slightly jammy
Chateau Musar 2002 (£21.50) - dried/cured meats and leather on nose, huge red fruit flavours (dried and fresh), raisins, cured meats, leather, vegetal/leafy, goes on and on
Gilles Barge Cote-Rotie Cuvee du Plessy 2003 (£36.00) - red cherry, dark savoury spice on nose but less on palate, some tertiary (leather, vegetal)
Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 1996 (£90.00) - finegrained tannins, highish acidity, lovely long finish, quite 'Burgundian' in style
Chateau Cissac 1978 - savoury, earthy, concentrated coffee nose-, with dried fruit and raisins on palate, but somewhat dominated by developmental characters (meat-leather-coffee) - I have tried a 1995 Cissac which was past it so am amazed that the '78 is still drinking so well
Giacomo Borgogno Barolo 1961 (£175.00) - from the "icons" range this one - raspberries on nose, with spice, vanillin, cloves, nutmeg, raisins, prunes, dried black fruit, smoky, coffee ground, leather (opening out with a bit of air); on the palate high acidity, fine dusty tannins, and still with awesome fruit concentration which suggests this could go on and on (unlike the Cissac...)
Monday, 22 March 2010
Tuesday, 25 August 2009
Are Chilean wines holding up during the recession?
A recent piece of research from Chilean investment bank Banchile concluded that Chile's ability to offer quality wines at cheap prices would see it gain market share from foreign competitors who generally have greater labour and raw material costs. It gave a "buy" recommendation for Concha y Toro shares and classed them as "medium risk" (the main risks being exposure to foreign exchange markets due to 80% of its sales being exports and climatic risk).
Wine Exports
Whilst Concha y Toro shares may currently be undervalued, data from inside the Chilean wine industry does not paint a wholly rosy picture. According to the monthly export figures of wine industry association Vinos de Chile, growth in exports of wine peaked in October 2007 and has since tumbled back down to Q2 06 levels.
Government statistical body ODEPA notes that, while the volume of total wine exported in 2008 was 3.5% lower than in 2007, there was actually a 9.6% increase in total value due to higher unit costs and a shift towards bottled DOC wines rather than bulk and non-DOC wines. In 2009, despite a 9.5% increase in volumes exported in the first 6 months, unit prices have decreased once more, meaning the value of 2009 wine exports to August is 2.7% lower than in 2008. From this it may be surmised that Chile is slightly increasing its export volumes, although prices are being squeezed. In terms of recession-proofing, this is not necessarily a bad sign, as despite lower margins, market penetration (and therefore brand development) is increasing.
Total Exports and the Price of Copper
Whilst total Chilean exports by value have fallen in the last 7 quarters (see table below - click on image for larger version), this comes on the back of 4 years of sustained growth, meaning they are still at Q1 06 levels. Chile is the largest exporter of copper, making the Chilean economy highly dependent on world copper prices.
From Q3 05 there was a pronounced spike in copper prices (see graph below), although they then fell sharply in Q1 08. The export data therefore needs to be read in the light of these fluctuations in the price of copper. Copper prices are important for the Chilean wine industry however, as they directly affect Chilean GDP and therefore the national wine market, but perhaps more importantly because several Chilean wineries are owned by companies or families with interests in the copper sector.
Wine Exports
Whilst Concha y Toro shares may currently be undervalued, data from inside the Chilean wine industry does not paint a wholly rosy picture. According to the monthly export figures of wine industry association Vinos de Chile, growth in exports of wine peaked in October 2007 and has since tumbled back down to Q2 06 levels.
Government statistical body ODEPA notes that, while the volume of total wine exported in 2008 was 3.5% lower than in 2007, there was actually a 9.6% increase in total value due to higher unit costs and a shift towards bottled DOC wines rather than bulk and non-DOC wines. In 2009, despite a 9.5% increase in volumes exported in the first 6 months, unit prices have decreased once more, meaning the value of 2009 wine exports to August is 2.7% lower than in 2008. From this it may be surmised that Chile is slightly increasing its export volumes, although prices are being squeezed. In terms of recession-proofing, this is not necessarily a bad sign, as despite lower margins, market penetration (and therefore brand development) is increasing.Total Exports and the Price of Copper
Whilst total Chilean exports by value have fallen in the last 7 quarters (see table below - click on image for larger version), this comes on the back of 4 years of sustained growth, meaning they are still at Q1 06 levels. Chile is the largest exporter of copper, making the Chilean economy highly dependent on world copper prices.
From Q3 05 there was a pronounced spike in copper prices (see graph below), although they then fell sharply in Q1 08. The export data therefore needs to be read in the light of these fluctuations in the price of copper. Copper prices are important for the Chilean wine industry however, as they directly affect Chilean GDP and therefore the national wine market, but perhaps more importantly because several Chilean wineries are owned by companies or families with interests in the copper sector.
Thursday, 9 July 2009
New Wave Spanish Wine Awards 2009
This tasting took place yesterday at The Worx in Parsons Green. On show were a selection of 110 Spanish wines which to qualify had to be either imported into the UK or be shown at the Wines from Spain annual generic tasting.
The Cantosan Brut sparkling Verdejo from Grupo Yllera offers fantastic value at £5.99 and is a good alternative to Cava. (See Jancis Robinson's comments on the same here.)
Getariako Txakolina Getaria 2008 is an interesting Basque wine which comes in an Alsace-shaped bottle. Made from indigenous Basque grape varieties, it is slightly Pinot Gris-ish, has a little residual sugar and is only 11% abv. Moving from the eastern to the western side of northern Spain, Galician producer Bodegas Docampo's Vina do Campo is also Alsatian in character and also refreshingly low in alcohol (12%). At £9.95 it is very fairly priced.
The judges (chaired by Tim Atkin MW) seem to have looked for varietal typicity when awarding best of category. The Best White Under £10 went to Castrocelta Albarino 2008, a classic Albarino with tons of apple and green melon. Best Value White was awarded to Frutos Villar's Maria de Molina 2008, clean and crisp citrus flavours and a pronounced nose - outstanding value at £5.99. Best Red Under £10 went to the Luna Beberide Mencia 2007, two years old but still a vivid purple colour and equally young-tasting, with a palate of zippy red cherries.
Some of the reds, especially those from the more traditional regions, were disappointingly over-oaked and tannic. A refreshing exception was Can Rafols dels Caus' Gran Caus 2001, a deep garnet-coloured 'Bordeaux on steroids' with really concentrated fruit (and a lot of sediment in the bottle). Pretty good value at £15.99. Ochoa's Vendimia Seleccionada 2001 was garnet coloured, with a vegetal claret-like nose and some good fruit on the palate (but will it keep much longer?) A Pinot Noir from Ronda was predictably baked and showed why Andalucia's climate is just too harsh for thin-skinned Pinot Noir.
As to price, there seemed to be quite a few good value wines in the up-to-£15 bracket, but in the £30-50 range I would generally have wanted more for my money. There still seems to be a line of thought in Spanish winemaking that quality is directly related to the amount of new oak used. It seems to me that oak should never be used as a flavour component in its own right, but rather to compliment the all-important primary fruit character. If it overpowers the fruit, it is not doing its job.
In the small fortifieds section there was a lovely Moscatel de Grano Menudo (aka Muscat a Petits Grains) from Bodegas Camilo Castilla and a fantastic, delicate Palo Cortado from Fernando de Castilla (which, incidentally, was also the Best Wine of Show and Best Dry Sherry!)
The Cantosan Brut sparkling Verdejo from Grupo Yllera offers fantastic value at £5.99 and is a good alternative to Cava. (See Jancis Robinson's comments on the same here.)
Getariako Txakolina Getaria 2008 is an interesting Basque wine which comes in an Alsace-shaped bottle. Made from indigenous Basque grape varieties, it is slightly Pinot Gris-ish, has a little residual sugar and is only 11% abv. Moving from the eastern to the western side of northern Spain, Galician producer Bodegas Docampo's Vina do Campo is also Alsatian in character and also refreshingly low in alcohol (12%). At £9.95 it is very fairly priced.
The judges (chaired by Tim Atkin MW) seem to have looked for varietal typicity when awarding best of category. The Best White Under £10 went to Castrocelta Albarino 2008, a classic Albarino with tons of apple and green melon. Best Value White was awarded to Frutos Villar's Maria de Molina 2008, clean and crisp citrus flavours and a pronounced nose - outstanding value at £5.99. Best Red Under £10 went to the Luna Beberide Mencia 2007, two years old but still a vivid purple colour and equally young-tasting, with a palate of zippy red cherries.
Some of the reds, especially those from the more traditional regions, were disappointingly over-oaked and tannic. A refreshing exception was Can Rafols dels Caus' Gran Caus 2001, a deep garnet-coloured 'Bordeaux on steroids' with really concentrated fruit (and a lot of sediment in the bottle). Pretty good value at £15.99. Ochoa's Vendimia Seleccionada 2001 was garnet coloured, with a vegetal claret-like nose and some good fruit on the palate (but will it keep much longer?) A Pinot Noir from Ronda was predictably baked and showed why Andalucia's climate is just too harsh for thin-skinned Pinot Noir.
As to price, there seemed to be quite a few good value wines in the up-to-£15 bracket, but in the £30-50 range I would generally have wanted more for my money. There still seems to be a line of thought in Spanish winemaking that quality is directly related to the amount of new oak used. It seems to me that oak should never be used as a flavour component in its own right, but rather to compliment the all-important primary fruit character. If it overpowers the fruit, it is not doing its job.
In the small fortifieds section there was a lovely Moscatel de Grano Menudo (aka Muscat a Petits Grains) from Bodegas Camilo Castilla and a fantastic, delicate Palo Cortado from Fernando de Castilla (which, incidentally, was also the Best Wine of Show and Best Dry Sherry!)
Saturday, 6 June 2009
Rutherglen
Rutherglen is a fortified wine grown in the hot, dry, continental climate of North Eastern Victoria in Australia. The soil is water-retaining deep red loam (see below).
The grapes used in the production of Rutherglen are Brown Muscat (a clone of the old world Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains which is found in the classic French Vins Doux Naturels) and so-called "Tokay" (Muscadelle).
Viticulturally, Rutherglen is unirrigated (water being scarce and so strictly controlled by the Australian authorities). The grapes shrivel, concentrating the sugar and allowing the grapes to achieve 20-22% potential abv without botrytis.
The wine is fortified to interrupt fermentation, in the traditional Port manner, leaving a minimum 160g/l sugar. Ageing takes place in a solera-like system. It is oxidative and evaporation takes place. Once bottled, Rutherglen does not develop further.
The 3 styles are Classic (which must be 5 years old); Grand (10 yo); and Rare (15 yo, but is usually much older). These categories also indicate increasing quality, concentration and sweetness.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
The grapes used in the production of Rutherglen are Brown Muscat (a clone of the old world Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains which is found in the classic French Vins Doux Naturels) and so-called "Tokay" (Muscadelle).
Viticulturally, Rutherglen is unirrigated (water being scarce and so strictly controlled by the Australian authorities). The grapes shrivel, concentrating the sugar and allowing the grapes to achieve 20-22% potential abv without botrytis.
The wine is fortified to interrupt fermentation, in the traditional Port manner, leaving a minimum 160g/l sugar. Ageing takes place in a solera-like system. It is oxidative and evaporation takes place. Once bottled, Rutherglen does not develop further.
The 3 styles are Classic (which must be 5 years old); Grand (10 yo); and Rare (15 yo, but is usually much older). These categories also indicate increasing quality, concentration and sweetness.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
Thursday, 4 June 2009
Fortified wine comparisons
The following is a comparison of some key features of Port, Sherry and Madeira.
Climate, topography and influences
Port - Hot continental, very dry. Serra do Marao shelters Douro. Sudden heavy rain and hail. Lack of water.
Sherry - Humid, despite low rainfall. Sunny and hot. Mediterranean. Levante/poniente winds.
Madeira - Humid, hot, subtropical, high rainfall.
Microclimates
Port - Cima Corgo best region. Also Baixo Corgo and Douro Superior.
Sherry - Sanlucar sea influence for ageing Manzanilla
Madeira - North/south split (north cooler - Sercial; south warmer - Bual)
Soils
Port - Schist, broken into terraces.
Sherry - Albariza (white, water-retaining, over 60% chalk). Also barros and arenas.
Madeira - Volcanic, fertile. Decomposed red or yellow tufa, with small round iron-rich basalt stones.
Grapes
Port - Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao
Sherry - Palomino, PX, Moscatel
Madeira - Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, Malvasia (Malmsey), Tinta Negra Mole
Viti
Port - Guyot-pruned, wire-trained. Terraces. Hand-harvesting on socalcos (6,000 vines/ha); small tractors on patamares (3,500 vines/ha).
Sherry - Vara y Pulgar pruning (similar to Guyot). Bush or head-trained vines. Hand harvesting. High yields (max 80 hl/ha).
Madeira - Tiny plots, small terraces, access difficult, hand-harvested. Trellises. Levadas (irrigation).
Vini
Port - Rapid extraction, lagares (foot/mechanised), fortified early. Vinified in the Douro (but maturation in Villa Nova de Gaia, see below).
Sherry - Free run/press wine (fino/oloroso). Flor. Fortified late spring (i.e. about 9 months after harvest). Mitad y mitad. Solera, in one of the 3 towns. (For PX and Moscatel, raisins, fermentation stops naturally.)
Madeira - Sercial and Verdelho little/no skin contact, fermented until almost dry, then fortified. Boal and Malmsey - fermented on skins for max extraction, fortified early.
Fortification
Before fermentation - Moscatel de Valencia, Samos Doux (Muscat of Samos), Vins de Liqueur (e.g. Pineau des Charentes)
To interrupt fermentation - Port, Boal, Malmsey, VDNs, Samos VDN (Muscat of Samos), Fortified Cyprus Wine, Rutherglen (Victoria), Mavrodaphne of Patras
After fermentation - Sercial, Verdelho, PX, Moscatel, Sherry, Commandaria (Cyprus)
Not fortified - most Montilla-Moriles, Samos Nectar (Muscat of Samos)
Fortified to a:
- low level - Fino, Manzanilla, VDNs
- medium level - Port, good Oloroso and Amontillado (in sherry, ageing increases levels of VA)
- high level - everything else
Acidity
Port - high
Sherry - low (with ageing, can gain sufficient volatile acidity to get up to medium)
Madeira - high
Maturation and finishing
Port - Aged in Villa Nova de Gaia, although some quintas are building warehouses in the Douro - cheaper, easier access. Cask ageing vs bottle ageing. Some Ports are bottle-aged so are not finished before bottling and will throw a deposit (Vintage, Crusted, Traditional LBV); others are filtered and cold-stabilised before bottling (Tawny, LBV).
Sherry - Aged in solera system, the object of which is consistency of style. (The solera system was started in 2nd half of 19th century for commerial reasons - previously sherry was vintage-dated.)
Madeira - The estufa system is central to Madeira viniculture. By heating the wine with hot water pipes for 3-12 months (3-6 in cuba de calor; 6-12 in armezem de calor) the effects of a sea voyage through the tropics are simulated. Vintage Madeiras are aged in the Canteiro system, which uses the heat of the sun, for anything from 20 to 100 years! A small and decreasing amount of Madeira is aged in soleras - known as Solera Madeira, the date indicates the foundation of the solera.
Vintage variations
Port - Vintage Port varies, as does LBV. Crusted is a blend of years so will be more uniform. Colheita (vintage tawny) varies; other tawnies do not - esp Tawny with Indicated Age, where the age indication refers to a particular style. (Beneficio - output prescribed by law.)
Sherry - There is almost no vintage Sherry - the solera system blends out vintage variations (same in Montilla Moriles).
Madeira - Vintage and Colheita Madeiras vary; other styles aim for consistency.
Trade and Legal Structures
Port - Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Portugal (IVDP)
Sherry - Consejo Regulador Vinos de Jerez y Manzanilla (see website)
Madeira - Instituto do Vinho da Madeira (IVM)
Markets
Port - Portugal, US (now more than UK), UK, France (now more than UK, esp young tawny styles to drink chilled as aperitifs)
Sherry - Spain, UK, Netherlands
Madeira - UK, cooking wine
Principal Producers
Port
Normally labelled under the name of the shipper.
Symington Family Estates - Graham's, Warre's, Dow's, Quinta do Vesuvio, Smith Woodhouse, Martinez, Gould Campbell and Quarles Harris. See website.
Taylor's - independent family company - Quinta de Vargellas (produced first Single Quinta Vintage Port in 1958). See history and website.
Quinta do Noval - owned by AXA. See website.
Sherry
Gonzalez Byass - Tio Pepe Fino (GB website and TP history)
Vinicola Hidalgo - La Gitana Manzanilla, Napoleon range
Also Antonio Barbadillo, Pedro Domecq, Emilo Lustau and Sanchez Romate
Madeira
There are only 6 companies licensed for export:
Henriques & Henriques
Madeira Wine Company (Blandys, Cossart Gordon)
Also Justinhos, D'Oliveiras, Barbeito, HM Borges
White Grapes - Palomino, Muscat/Moscatel, PX, Malvasia, Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Gouveio
Black Grapes - Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao
Oxidised Wines - Oloroso, Madeira, Rancio-style Grenache-based VDNs (eg Banyuls Rancio), Rutherglen, Aged Tawny Port, Amontillado and Palo Cortado (although both start anaerobically)
Not Oxidised - Fino, Manzanilla, Ruby/Vintage Port, LBV, Muscat-based VDNs
Sources: WSET, The Oxford Companion to Wine
Climate, topography and influences
Port - Hot continental, very dry. Serra do Marao shelters Douro. Sudden heavy rain and hail. Lack of water.
Sherry - Humid, despite low rainfall. Sunny and hot. Mediterranean. Levante/poniente winds.
Madeira - Humid, hot, subtropical, high rainfall.
Microclimates
Port - Cima Corgo best region. Also Baixo Corgo and Douro Superior.
Sherry - Sanlucar sea influence for ageing Manzanilla
Madeira - North/south split (north cooler - Sercial; south warmer - Bual)
Soils
Port - Schist, broken into terraces.
Sherry - Albariza (white, water-retaining, over 60% chalk). Also barros and arenas.
Madeira - Volcanic, fertile. Decomposed red or yellow tufa, with small round iron-rich basalt stones.
Grapes
Port - Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao
Sherry - Palomino, PX, Moscatel
Madeira - Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, Malvasia (Malmsey), Tinta Negra Mole
Viti
Port - Guyot-pruned, wire-trained. Terraces. Hand-harvesting on socalcos (6,000 vines/ha); small tractors on patamares (3,500 vines/ha).
Sherry - Vara y Pulgar pruning (similar to Guyot). Bush or head-trained vines. Hand harvesting. High yields (max 80 hl/ha).
Madeira - Tiny plots, small terraces, access difficult, hand-harvested. Trellises. Levadas (irrigation).
Vini
Port - Rapid extraction, lagares (foot/mechanised), fortified early. Vinified in the Douro (but maturation in Villa Nova de Gaia, see below).
Sherry - Free run/press wine (fino/oloroso). Flor. Fortified late spring (i.e. about 9 months after harvest). Mitad y mitad. Solera, in one of the 3 towns. (For PX and Moscatel, raisins, fermentation stops naturally.)
Madeira - Sercial and Verdelho little/no skin contact, fermented until almost dry, then fortified. Boal and Malmsey - fermented on skins for max extraction, fortified early.
Fortification
Before fermentation - Moscatel de Valencia, Samos Doux (Muscat of Samos), Vins de Liqueur (e.g. Pineau des Charentes)
To interrupt fermentation - Port, Boal, Malmsey, VDNs, Samos VDN (Muscat of Samos), Fortified Cyprus Wine, Rutherglen (Victoria), Mavrodaphne of Patras
After fermentation - Sercial, Verdelho, PX, Moscatel, Sherry, Commandaria (Cyprus)
Not fortified - most Montilla-Moriles, Samos Nectar (Muscat of Samos)
Fortified to a:
- low level - Fino, Manzanilla, VDNs
- medium level - Port, good Oloroso and Amontillado (in sherry, ageing increases levels of VA)
- high level - everything else
Acidity
Port - high
Sherry - low (with ageing, can gain sufficient volatile acidity to get up to medium)
Madeira - high
Maturation and finishing
Port - Aged in Villa Nova de Gaia, although some quintas are building warehouses in the Douro - cheaper, easier access. Cask ageing vs bottle ageing. Some Ports are bottle-aged so are not finished before bottling and will throw a deposit (Vintage, Crusted, Traditional LBV); others are filtered and cold-stabilised before bottling (Tawny, LBV).
Sherry - Aged in solera system, the object of which is consistency of style. (The solera system was started in 2nd half of 19th century for commerial reasons - previously sherry was vintage-dated.)
Madeira - The estufa system is central to Madeira viniculture. By heating the wine with hot water pipes for 3-12 months (3-6 in cuba de calor; 6-12 in armezem de calor) the effects of a sea voyage through the tropics are simulated. Vintage Madeiras are aged in the Canteiro system, which uses the heat of the sun, for anything from 20 to 100 years! A small and decreasing amount of Madeira is aged in soleras - known as Solera Madeira, the date indicates the foundation of the solera.
Vintage variations
Port - Vintage Port varies, as does LBV. Crusted is a blend of years so will be more uniform. Colheita (vintage tawny) varies; other tawnies do not - esp Tawny with Indicated Age, where the age indication refers to a particular style. (Beneficio - output prescribed by law.)
Sherry - There is almost no vintage Sherry - the solera system blends out vintage variations (same in Montilla Moriles).
Madeira - Vintage and Colheita Madeiras vary; other styles aim for consistency.
Trade and Legal Structures
Port - Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Portugal (IVDP)
Sherry - Consejo Regulador Vinos de Jerez y Manzanilla (see website)
Madeira - Instituto do Vinho da Madeira (IVM)
Markets
Port - Portugal, US (now more than UK), UK, France (now more than UK, esp young tawny styles to drink chilled as aperitifs)
Sherry - Spain, UK, Netherlands
Madeira - UK, cooking wine
Principal Producers
Port
Normally labelled under the name of the shipper.
Symington Family Estates - Graham's, Warre's, Dow's, Quinta do Vesuvio, Smith Woodhouse, Martinez, Gould Campbell and Quarles Harris. See website.
Taylor's - independent family company - Quinta de Vargellas (produced first Single Quinta Vintage Port in 1958). See history and website.
Quinta do Noval - owned by AXA. See website.
Sherry
Gonzalez Byass - Tio Pepe Fino (GB website and TP history)
Vinicola Hidalgo - La Gitana Manzanilla, Napoleon range
Also Antonio Barbadillo, Pedro Domecq, Emilo Lustau and Sanchez Romate
Madeira
There are only 6 companies licensed for export:
Henriques & Henriques
Madeira Wine Company (Blandys, Cossart Gordon)
Also Justinhos, D'Oliveiras, Barbeito, HM Borges
White Grapes - Palomino, Muscat/Moscatel, PX, Malvasia, Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Gouveio
Black Grapes - Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao
Oxidised Wines - Oloroso, Madeira, Rancio-style Grenache-based VDNs (eg Banyuls Rancio), Rutherglen, Aged Tawny Port, Amontillado and Palo Cortado (although both start anaerobically)
Not Oxidised - Fino, Manzanilla, Ruby/Vintage Port, LBV, Muscat-based VDNs
Sources: WSET, The Oxford Companion to Wine
Wednesday, 3 June 2009
Sherry
Here are some essential sherry facts:
Location
Cadiz, Andalucia
Aged in bodegas in Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda (below)
Climate
Humid, despite low rainfall. Sunny and hot. Mediterranean.
Winds - from east (levante) hot, dry conditions; from west (poniente) cooler, more humid.
Soil
Albariza - white, water-retaining, over 60% chalk
Barros and Arenas soils are much less important, especailly in these days of reduced demand for sherry - many vines on these soils have now been grubbed up. However, Moscatel is grown in some arenas areas.
Grapes
Palomino, PX and Moscatel
Viticulture
Pruning - vara y pulgar (similar to Guyot)
Training - bush vine (en vaso) or head-pruned (trunk is trained into a knob at the top)
Yields - high - max 80hl/ha
Vinification
For Palomino, there are two distinct pathways - one for free-run juice and one for press wine. The below chart is a bit simplistic but the majority of the free-run juice will end up as fino and the majority of the press wine as oloroso-styles (i.e. matured without the influence of flor - see earlier post on flor). The relatively high fermentation temperature (28 C) is due to the fact that primary fruitiness and fermentation esters are not wanted.
For PX and Moscatel, the grapes are dried in the sun until they shrivel and become raisin-like. The high concentration of sugars means the fermentation stops naturally at about 5% abv, leaving 200-400g/l residual sugar. PX is fortified with mitad y mitad at around 54% abv and is aged oxidatively in a solera.
Styles
Fino - flor prevent the wine from oxidising; "salty", acetaldehyde nose and taste
Manzanilla - fino aged in Sanlucar de Barrameda - climate moderated by sea
Manzanilla Pasada - older than c.8 years - flor starts to die and wine oxidises
Pale Cream - fino sweetened with rectified, concentrated grape must (RCGM)
Amontillado Seco - aged first under flor (min 3 years), then oxidatively (usually by refortifying and moving to new solera, but sometimes by allowing flor to die away); "hazelnut" on palate
Blended Amontillado - sweetened using younger amontillados/fino/other
Palo Cortado - like Amontillado, aged first under flor then oxidatively; fuller-bodied; PC solera wine sometimes not under ullage
Oloroso Seco - aged oxidatively (without flor), sometimes for several decades; "walnut" on palate; although not aged under flor, may have some flor influence as flor forms on all sherry pre-fortification
Oloroso Dulce/Cream Sherry - sweetened oloroso (using PX or other)
PX and Moscatel - 15% abv, solera-aged
Trade/Legal
Bodegas de Crianza y Expedicion - shippng companies which dominate production, located in 3 main sherry towns (Jerez, Sanlucar, Puerto de Santa Maria)
VOS - average age at least 20 years old
VORS - 30 years
Also 12yo and 15yo
See also my post on fortified wine comparisons.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
Location
Cadiz, Andalucia
Aged in bodegas in Jerez de la Frontera, Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda (below)
Climate
Humid, despite low rainfall. Sunny and hot. Mediterranean.
Winds - from east (levante) hot, dry conditions; from west (poniente) cooler, more humid.
Soil
Albariza - white, water-retaining, over 60% chalk
Barros and Arenas soils are much less important, especailly in these days of reduced demand for sherry - many vines on these soils have now been grubbed up. However, Moscatel is grown in some arenas areas.
Grapes
Palomino, PX and Moscatel
Viticulture
Pruning - vara y pulgar (similar to Guyot)
Training - bush vine (en vaso) or head-pruned (trunk is trained into a knob at the top)
Yields - high - max 80hl/ha
Vinification
For Palomino, there are two distinct pathways - one for free-run juice and one for press wine. The below chart is a bit simplistic but the majority of the free-run juice will end up as fino and the majority of the press wine as oloroso-styles (i.e. matured without the influence of flor - see earlier post on flor). The relatively high fermentation temperature (28 C) is due to the fact that primary fruitiness and fermentation esters are not wanted.
For PX and Moscatel, the grapes are dried in the sun until they shrivel and become raisin-like. The high concentration of sugars means the fermentation stops naturally at about 5% abv, leaving 200-400g/l residual sugar. PX is fortified with mitad y mitad at around 54% abv and is aged oxidatively in a solera.
Styles
Fino - flor prevent the wine from oxidising; "salty", acetaldehyde nose and taste
Manzanilla - fino aged in Sanlucar de Barrameda - climate moderated by sea
Manzanilla Pasada - older than c.8 years - flor starts to die and wine oxidises
Pale Cream - fino sweetened with rectified, concentrated grape must (RCGM)
Amontillado Seco - aged first under flor (min 3 years), then oxidatively (usually by refortifying and moving to new solera, but sometimes by allowing flor to die away); "hazelnut" on palate
Blended Amontillado - sweetened using younger amontillados/fino/other
Palo Cortado - like Amontillado, aged first under flor then oxidatively; fuller-bodied; PC solera wine sometimes not under ullage
Oloroso Seco - aged oxidatively (without flor), sometimes for several decades; "walnut" on palate; although not aged under flor, may have some flor influence as flor forms on all sherry pre-fortification
Oloroso Dulce/Cream Sherry - sweetened oloroso (using PX or other)
PX and Moscatel - 15% abv, solera-aged
Trade/Legal
Bodegas de Crianza y Expedicion - shippng companies which dominate production, located in 3 main sherry towns (Jerez, Sanlucar, Puerto de Santa Maria)
VOS - average age at least 20 years old
VORS - 30 years
Also 12yo and 15yo
See also my post on fortified wine comparisons.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
Tuesday, 2 June 2009
Madeira
Grown in humid, subtropical heat, and on fertile, volcanic soils, Madeira's "noble" grape varieties are Sercial, Verdelho, Boal/Bual and Malvasia/Malmsey. The majority of Madeira is actually made from the inferior Tinta Negra Mole grape variety. See table below for comparisons.
The gradations in the site climate seen in the above table are mostly due to altitude.
Plots are typically tiny and on small terraces, so mechanisation is impossible. Trellises are used to raise the canopy off the ground and irrigation is via channels known as levadas.
There is a steady increase in residual sugar throughout the styles of Madeira. Sercial typically contains 1.5% residual sugar (NB NOT g/l), Verdelho 2.5%, Bual 3.5% and Malmsey has over 4%.
The diagrams below give an outline of ageing and styles of Madeira.
Above: Estufas
Above: Canteiro - Vintage Madeira maturing in
600L wooden casks, heated only by the sun
Sources: WSET, The Oxford Companion to Wine
See also my post on fortified wine comparisons and Jamie Goode's Spotlight on Madeira.
The gradations in the site climate seen in the above table are mostly due to altitude.
Plots are typically tiny and on small terraces, so mechanisation is impossible. Trellises are used to raise the canopy off the ground and irrigation is via channels known as levadas.
There is a steady increase in residual sugar throughout the styles of Madeira. Sercial typically contains 1.5% residual sugar (NB NOT g/l), Verdelho 2.5%, Bual 3.5% and Malmsey has over 4%.
The diagrams below give an outline of ageing and styles of Madeira.
Above: Estufas
Above: Canteiro - Vintage Madeira maturing in600L wooden casks, heated only by the sun
Sources: WSET, The Oxford Companion to Wine
See also my post on fortified wine comparisons and Jamie Goode's Spotlight on Madeira.
Saturday, 30 May 2009
Port
Here is a summary of the essentials of port viticulture and production - to help me with my WSET Diploma fortifieds revision, but hopefully also of general interest!
Location
Grapes for port are grown in the Douro region of Portugal. The best plots are in the Cima Corgo, from the slopes around the village of Pinhao (see photo below). Lower quality grapes (e.g. for young ruby port) are grown in the Baixo Corgo to the west and the Douro Superior to the east, which stretches all the way to the Spanish border.
Climate
The climate in the Douro is hot continental and very dry, becoming increasingly so further inland. The hills of the Serra do Marao shelter the Douro from the Atlantic influence. Climatological hazards include sudden bursts of heavy rain which can cause erosion and damage terraces and hail in the summer and autumn which can damage crops. Lack of water is a constant problem - weeds are removed from vineyards to remove competition for water.
Viticulture
The soil is schist, which due to the steep slopes is formed into terraces. Vines are Guyot-pruned, wire-trained.
The older, narrower walled terraces known as socalcos are often only two rows wide and are planted densely (c. 6,000 vines/ha). Maintenance of the walls is costly and time-consuming and the narrow gauge means tractor access is not possible, which is why in the 1970s the terracing system known as patamares was introduced. This involved bulldozing wider terraces into the hillsides and replacing stone walls with ramps bound by vegetation. Vertical planting has also been introduced (known as vinha ao alto) to enable mechanisation.
(left, socalcos; right, patamares)
Many vineyards contain long-forgotten mixtures of indigenous grape varieties. Modern regulations permit around 20 grape varieties, the most important of which are:
Touriga Nacional - "quality" - the highest quality Douro grape, low yields, high colour and tannin, very aromatic.
Touriga Franca - lighter, softer, rounder, very perfumed though and good heat- and drought-tolerance
Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain) - "medium" (colour, tannin, concentration) but adds finesse, good length and good in cooler years
Tinta Barroca - "high" (colour, tannin, acid, mustweight); early-ripening, cooler sites
Tinta Cao - v low yields, but good for ageing
Quintas are classified into Categories A-E (A is best) using a complex points system which rates them according to 12 physical factors including vines, location, aspect, gradient, soil and shelter.
Vinification
Macerated vigorously for only 2 or 3 days, for a rapid extraction of colour and tannin. Traditionally this was done by foot-treading in large granite lagares.
Premium ports use foot treading (or the mechanical equivalent - the "robotic lagar" developed by Symingtons). Cheaper ports use a mixture of roto-vinifiers, vigorous pumping-over, thermo-vinification and (in decreasing numbers) autovinifiers.
Once the wine reaches 6-8% abv (with c. 90-100g/l sugar), it is fortified to interrupt fermentation. One part aguardente (77% abv) mixed with 4 parts wine to give c. 20% abv.
Ageing
Port can be either cask aged or bottle aged. Young ruby port is aged in large concrete or stainless steel vats (20-100,000 litres). Oak is used for more expensive ports, although never new oak.
Wood-matured ports - aged in wooden casks (or sometimes cement tanks) and are ready to drink straight after fining, filtration and bottling. E.g. tawny port (which is aged in wood for so long that it loses its colour and turns tawny).
Bottle-aged ports - aged for a short period in wood and bottled without filtration. May take 20-30 years to be ready to drink. E.g. vintage port.
Styles of Port
Ruby - spend less than a year in cask
Reserve Ruby - aged for up to 5 years, more flavour
White - skin contact, most released while young (made from white-skinned grapes such as Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Mourisco)
Tawny:
- Fine - basic, can be blend of ruby and white
- Aged - oxidatively for c. 8 years in cask
- with Indicated Age - 10, 20, 30 or "over 40" - refers to a style
- Colheita - vintage
LBV - single year, 4-6 years in cask then cold-stabilised, filtered and bottled. Ready to drink on release, does not improve.
Traditional LBV - single year, but not cold-stabilised and filtered so will form a deposit and improve, although can be drunk on release
Crusted - blend of years, not cold-stabilised and filtered, ready to drink but will improve (fairly recent invention of Symingtons and others to appeal to vintage port market, although this is a blend of years)
Single Quinta Vintage - released in years when a full vintage not declared, to satisfy consumer demand for dated ports (although some producers only ever release sqv's)
Vintage - bottled within 2 years of vintage, ageing takes place in bottle
Beneficio
The beneficio is the annual authorisation of the amount of port that may be produced. Decided in July/August.
Tasting - the Port "Holy Trinity"
(1) sweet; (2) fortified to a high level; (3) high acidity (i.e. high sugar, high alcohol, high acid)
See also my post on fortified wine comparisons.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
Location
Grapes for port are grown in the Douro region of Portugal. The best plots are in the Cima Corgo, from the slopes around the village of Pinhao (see photo below). Lower quality grapes (e.g. for young ruby port) are grown in the Baixo Corgo to the west and the Douro Superior to the east, which stretches all the way to the Spanish border.
Climate
The climate in the Douro is hot continental and very dry, becoming increasingly so further inland. The hills of the Serra do Marao shelter the Douro from the Atlantic influence. Climatological hazards include sudden bursts of heavy rain which can cause erosion and damage terraces and hail in the summer and autumn which can damage crops. Lack of water is a constant problem - weeds are removed from vineyards to remove competition for water.
Viticulture
The soil is schist, which due to the steep slopes is formed into terraces. Vines are Guyot-pruned, wire-trained.
The older, narrower walled terraces known as socalcos are often only two rows wide and are planted densely (c. 6,000 vines/ha). Maintenance of the walls is costly and time-consuming and the narrow gauge means tractor access is not possible, which is why in the 1970s the terracing system known as patamares was introduced. This involved bulldozing wider terraces into the hillsides and replacing stone walls with ramps bound by vegetation. Vertical planting has also been introduced (known as vinha ao alto) to enable mechanisation.
(left, socalcos; right, patamares)
Many vineyards contain long-forgotten mixtures of indigenous grape varieties. Modern regulations permit around 20 grape varieties, the most important of which are:
Touriga Nacional - "quality" - the highest quality Douro grape, low yields, high colour and tannin, very aromatic.
Touriga Franca - lighter, softer, rounder, very perfumed though and good heat- and drought-tolerance
Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo in Spain) - "medium" (colour, tannin, concentration) but adds finesse, good length and good in cooler years
Tinta Barroca - "high" (colour, tannin, acid, mustweight); early-ripening, cooler sites
Tinta Cao - v low yields, but good for ageing
Quintas are classified into Categories A-E (A is best) using a complex points system which rates them according to 12 physical factors including vines, location, aspect, gradient, soil and shelter.
Vinification
Macerated vigorously for only 2 or 3 days, for a rapid extraction of colour and tannin. Traditionally this was done by foot-treading in large granite lagares.
Premium ports use foot treading (or the mechanical equivalent - the "robotic lagar" developed by Symingtons). Cheaper ports use a mixture of roto-vinifiers, vigorous pumping-over, thermo-vinification and (in decreasing numbers) autovinifiers.
Once the wine reaches 6-8% abv (with c. 90-100g/l sugar), it is fortified to interrupt fermentation. One part aguardente (77% abv) mixed with 4 parts wine to give c. 20% abv.
Ageing
Port can be either cask aged or bottle aged. Young ruby port is aged in large concrete or stainless steel vats (20-100,000 litres). Oak is used for more expensive ports, although never new oak.
Wood-matured ports - aged in wooden casks (or sometimes cement tanks) and are ready to drink straight after fining, filtration and bottling. E.g. tawny port (which is aged in wood for so long that it loses its colour and turns tawny).
Bottle-aged ports - aged for a short period in wood and bottled without filtration. May take 20-30 years to be ready to drink. E.g. vintage port.
Styles of Port
Ruby - spend less than a year in cask
Reserve Ruby - aged for up to 5 years, more flavour
White - skin contact, most released while young (made from white-skinned grapes such as Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Mourisco)
Tawny:
- Fine - basic, can be blend of ruby and white
- Aged - oxidatively for c. 8 years in cask
- with Indicated Age - 10, 20, 30 or "over 40" - refers to a style
- Colheita - vintage
LBV - single year, 4-6 years in cask then cold-stabilised, filtered and bottled. Ready to drink on release, does not improve.
Traditional LBV - single year, but not cold-stabilised and filtered so will form a deposit and improve, although can be drunk on release
Crusted - blend of years, not cold-stabilised and filtered, ready to drink but will improve (fairly recent invention of Symingtons and others to appeal to vintage port market, although this is a blend of years)
Single Quinta Vintage - released in years when a full vintage not declared, to satisfy consumer demand for dated ports (although some producers only ever release sqv's)
Vintage - bottled within 2 years of vintage, ageing takes place in bottle
Beneficio
The beneficio is the annual authorisation of the amount of port that may be produced. Decided in July/August.
Tasting - the Port "Holy Trinity"
(1) sweet; (2) fortified to a high level; (3) high acidity (i.e. high sugar, high alcohol, high acid)
See also my post on fortified wine comparisons.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
Friday, 29 May 2009
Other Fortified Wines
Here is an outline of some less-common fortified wines:
1. Spain - Moscatel de Valencia: made from Muscat of Alexandria and mostly fortified before fermentation to c. 15% abv; simple fresh perfumes.
2. Greece - Muscat of Samos: Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, grown at altitude on hillside terraces, can be fortified before fermentation (Samos Doux), to interrupt fermentation (Samos VDN) or unfortified (Samos Nectar). It comes from the Greek island of Samos, in the Aegean and is allegedly "Greece's most famous wine" (after retsina).
3. Greece - Mavrodaphne of Patras: a Greek appelation in the Peloponnese which produces a fortified sweet red made from the Mavrodaphne grape, cask aged for a long time, giving a tawny colour.
4. Cyprus - Commandaria: Cypriot wine, made from sun-dried grapes, fortified after fermentation has stopped naturally. Fermentation achieves only a low level of alcohol - about 10% abv (NB PX is even less). Aged oxidatively for at least 2 years in oak at the coast. Static or solera systems can be used.
5. Cyprus - Fortified Cyprus Wine: sherry-style, fortified mid-ferment, cask-aged for a year then sweetened with concentrated grape must (although there are dry styles aged under flor in solera).
6. Australia - premium vintage and tawny styles are made from Rhone varieties (esp Shiraz); to a lesser extent, Madeira- and Sherry-styles; see separate post on Rutherglen
7. California - basic cream sherry-styles, but sweetened; some quality Muscats and Port styles
8. South Africa - Port-style wines using Rhone/Port varieties; Sherry styles; Moscatel
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
1. Spain - Moscatel de Valencia: made from Muscat of Alexandria and mostly fortified before fermentation to c. 15% abv; simple fresh perfumes.
2. Greece - Muscat of Samos: Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, grown at altitude on hillside terraces, can be fortified before fermentation (Samos Doux), to interrupt fermentation (Samos VDN) or unfortified (Samos Nectar). It comes from the Greek island of Samos, in the Aegean and is allegedly "Greece's most famous wine" (after retsina).
3. Greece - Mavrodaphne of Patras: a Greek appelation in the Peloponnese which produces a fortified sweet red made from the Mavrodaphne grape, cask aged for a long time, giving a tawny colour.
4. Cyprus - Commandaria: Cypriot wine, made from sun-dried grapes, fortified after fermentation has stopped naturally. Fermentation achieves only a low level of alcohol - about 10% abv (NB PX is even less). Aged oxidatively for at least 2 years in oak at the coast. Static or solera systems can be used.
5. Cyprus - Fortified Cyprus Wine: sherry-style, fortified mid-ferment, cask-aged for a year then sweetened with concentrated grape must (although there are dry styles aged under flor in solera).6. Australia - premium vintage and tawny styles are made from Rhone varieties (esp Shiraz); to a lesser extent, Madeira- and Sherry-styles; see separate post on Rutherglen
7. California - basic cream sherry-styles, but sweetened; some quality Muscats and Port styles
8. South Africa - Port-style wines using Rhone/Port varieties; Sherry styles; Moscatel
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
Montilla-Moriles
Five need-to-know facts about Montilla-Moriles:
1. Montilla-Moriles is a D.O. (Denominacion de Origen) in Cordoba, Andalucia. It was created in 1945.
2. The predominant soil is albariza (white Andalucian soil, high limestone content, dries without caking, releases water slowly to vines over growing season); 70% of grapes are Pedro Ximenez (also some Airen and Muscat of Alexandria but NOT Palomino); and vines are low-yielding bush vines.
3. Vinification is similar to sherry. Fino styles are not fortified but get to 15% abv naturally. Oxidised styles (Oloroso styles) can be aged naturally or fortified. The terms Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso etc may be used within Spain but are restricted to Sherry in other EU countries, where they are re-labelled as Pale Dry, Medium Dry, Pale Cream and Cream.
4. A solera system is used, as for sherry.
5. The minimum age for Montillas is 2 years (rather than 3 for Sherry), but the majority are much older.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
1. Montilla-Moriles is a D.O. (Denominacion de Origen) in Cordoba, Andalucia. It was created in 1945.
2. The predominant soil is albariza (white Andalucian soil, high limestone content, dries without caking, releases water slowly to vines over growing season); 70% of grapes are Pedro Ximenez (also some Airen and Muscat of Alexandria but NOT Palomino); and vines are low-yielding bush vines.3. Vinification is similar to sherry. Fino styles are not fortified but get to 15% abv naturally. Oxidised styles (Oloroso styles) can be aged naturally or fortified. The terms Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso etc may be used within Spain but are restricted to Sherry in other EU countries, where they are re-labelled as Pale Dry, Medium Dry, Pale Cream and Cream.
4. A solera system is used, as for sherry.
5. The minimum age for Montillas is 2 years (rather than 3 for Sherry), but the majority are much older.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
Flor
1. Flor is a benevolent film-forming yeast which, in a winemaking context, can form on the top of partially-filled barrels of maturing sherry, protecting the wine from oxidising. It is typified by those yeasts native to Jerez.
2. A by-product of the action of flor yeast is the chemical acetaldeyde, which gives fino-style sherries their distinctive "salty" aroma. The presence of acetaldehyde causes the "sherry-like" nose of some unfortified wines which are made using flor or flor-like yeasts.
3. Flor feeds on glycerine, polyphenols, higher alcohols and volatile acidity.
4. It only develops in wine which is between 14.5 and 16.0% abv (and not, as per legend, due to a magical, ineffable quality in the Andalucian air). It forms on all sherry pre-fortification, so even some Oloroso Seco styles may have some flor characteristics.
5. It is used in the production of Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado and Palo Cortado. In the case of Amontillado, the yeast either die away naturally after consuming all the glycerol, gradually exposing the wine to oxygen, or the wine is moved to a different solera mid-process. Palo Cortado makes use of the second technique only and so can be fuller-bodied than Amontillado.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
2. A by-product of the action of flor yeast is the chemical acetaldeyde, which gives fino-style sherries their distinctive "salty" aroma. The presence of acetaldehyde causes the "sherry-like" nose of some unfortified wines which are made using flor or flor-like yeasts.
3. Flor feeds on glycerine, polyphenols, higher alcohols and volatile acidity.
4. It only develops in wine which is between 14.5 and 16.0% abv (and not, as per legend, due to a magical, ineffable quality in the Andalucian air). It forms on all sherry pre-fortification, so even some Oloroso Seco styles may have some flor characteristics.
5. It is used in the production of Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado and Palo Cortado. In the case of Amontillado, the yeast either die away naturally after consuming all the glycerol, gradually exposing the wine to oxygen, or the wine is moved to a different solera mid-process. Palo Cortado makes use of the second technique only and so can be fuller-bodied than Amontillado.
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
Vins Doux Naturels
Here are 5 essential facts about VDNs.
1. Despite their name, VDNs are not naturally sweet. They are fortified mid-ferment (at about 15-18% abv) to arrest the fermentation process, as is port, a technique known as mutage.
2. VDNs are generally either Muscat- or Grenache-based.
3. The most common Muscat grapes are Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains (used for Muscat de Beaumes de Venise from the Rhone and Muscat de Saint-Jean de Minervois from Languedoc-Rousillon) and Muscat of Alexandria (used in Muscat de Rivesaltes, also from L-R).
4. Grenache (or sometimes Grenache Blanc) is used to make Rasteau from the Rhone and Banyuls and Rivesaltes from L-R.
5. Grenache-based VDNs can be aged oxidatively. The terms Rancio, Ambre and Tuile all indicate oxidatively-aged VDNs. Hors d'age indicates a wine that has been aged for at least 5 years.
A contrasting style is vin de liqueur or mistelles, made by adding grape spirit to grape must (the process known as mutage). Fortification occurs pre-ferment, meaning there are no secondary fermentation products and the final product tastes more sprirt dominated than VDNs. E.g. Pineau des Charentes.
Rivesaltes
(L-R, French Catalonia, near Perpignan)
Banyuls-sur-Mer
(L-R, French Catalonia, near Perpignan)
Beaumes de Venise
(Rhone, near Carpentras)
Vaison la Romaine
(Rhone, near Rasteau)
(Sources: WSET materials, The Oxford Companion to Wine)
1. Despite their name, VDNs are not naturally sweet. They are fortified mid-ferment (at about 15-18% abv) to arrest the fermentation process, as is port, a technique known as mutage.
2. VDNs are generally either Muscat- or Grenache-based.
3. The most common Muscat grapes are Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains (used for Muscat de Beaumes de Venise from the Rhone and Muscat de Saint-Jean de Minervois from Languedoc-Rousillon) and Muscat of Alexandria (used in Muscat de Rivesaltes, also from L-R).
4. Grenache (or sometimes Grenache Blanc) is used to make Rasteau from the Rhone and Banyuls and Rivesaltes from L-R.
5. Grenache-based VDNs can be aged oxidatively. The terms Rancio, Ambre and Tuile all indicate oxidatively-aged VDNs. Hors d'age indicates a wine that has been aged for at least 5 years.
A contrasting style is vin de liqueur or mistelles, made by adding grape spirit to grape must (the process known as mutage). Fortification occurs pre-ferment, meaning there are no secondary fermentation products and the final product tastes more sprirt dominated than VDNs. E.g. Pineau des Charentes.
Rivesaltes(L-R, French Catalonia, near Perpignan)
Banyuls-sur-Mer(L-R, French Catalonia, near Perpignan)
Beaumes de Venise(Rhone, near Carpentras)
Vaison la Romaine(Rhone, near Rasteau)
Friday, 8 May 2009
English Wine Producers Tasting 2009
This annual tasting at the end of April coincided with English Wine Week, a campaign started some five years ago to promote English wines and vineyards. The sporting location was different - Stamford Bridge instead of Lord's this year - but the wines were broadly as I remembered them from 2008. In general terms, the sparkling wines stood head and shoulders above the still ones, the whites were patchy and there were next to no stand-out reds.
The highlights of the tasting for me were:
Chapel Down Brut Vintage Reserve NV - mostly small bubbles, crisp nose of stainless steel minerality and gooseberries, crisp/acidic/fresh on palate with a nice level of fizz; slightly synthetic aftertaste
Camel Valley 'Cornwall' Brut 2006 - Chardonnay-ish nose and palate, light malolactic, light, non-aggressive bubbles; bit of residual sweetness on the finish
Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2001 - mixture of large and small bubbles, very creamy nose, richness on palate - a foody wine
The future of English wine certainly seems to be sparkling. There are some pitfalls which need to be avoided, such as over-chaptalisation (Three Choirs?) and uneven bubbles which fade quickly (Bookers?) Trying to imitate Champagne should also be avoided (Nyetimber - especially their Classic Cuvee?)
The down-side of committing to a future of sparkling wine production is that it is much more capital-intensive than still winemaking. For this reason Stephen Spurrier says he is considering a joint venture with an established champagne house, Duval-Leroy (see article). Maybe this is the way forward for start-up English wineries. Convincing French champagne houses that they need an English producer on their books may well be a difficult task though...
The highlights of the tasting for me were:
Chapel Down Brut Vintage Reserve NV - mostly small bubbles, crisp nose of stainless steel minerality and gooseberries, crisp/acidic/fresh on palate with a nice level of fizz; slightly synthetic aftertaste
Camel Valley 'Cornwall' Brut 2006 - Chardonnay-ish nose and palate, light malolactic, light, non-aggressive bubbles; bit of residual sweetness on the finish
Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2001 - mixture of large and small bubbles, very creamy nose, richness on palate - a foody wine
The future of English wine certainly seems to be sparkling. There are some pitfalls which need to be avoided, such as over-chaptalisation (Three Choirs?) and uneven bubbles which fade quickly (Bookers?) Trying to imitate Champagne should also be avoided (Nyetimber - especially their Classic Cuvee?)
The down-side of committing to a future of sparkling wine production is that it is much more capital-intensive than still winemaking. For this reason Stephen Spurrier says he is considering a joint venture with an established champagne house, Duval-Leroy (see article). Maybe this is the way forward for start-up English wineries. Convincing French champagne houses that they need an English producer on their books may well be a difficult task though...
Friday, 27 March 2009
Info Mine: The Carbon Cycle
Here is a quick 5-step look at the natural cycle of winemaking (with thanks to David Bird and with distant memories of GCSE science).
1. The leaves of the vine absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. The roots absorb water from the soil. These raw materials are converted into sugars by means of photosynthesis. The sugars are stored in the vine's grapes.
2. At this point the grapes are picked. The sugars are then converted into alcohol by the process of fermentation. Fermentation is kick-started by yeast, which is present in the atmoshere, on the skins of grapes and - in a winemaking context - absorbed into the walls, ceilings and surfaces of a winery.
3. Eventually - long after most wine would hopefully have been drunk - the wine will be attacked by bacteria and will turn into vinegar.
4. The vinegar will itself decompose, releasing carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.
5. The cycle starts all over again!
1. The leaves of the vine absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. The roots absorb water from the soil. These raw materials are converted into sugars by means of photosynthesis. The sugars are stored in the vine's grapes.
2. At this point the grapes are picked. The sugars are then converted into alcohol by the process of fermentation. Fermentation is kick-started by yeast, which is present in the atmoshere, on the skins of grapes and - in a winemaking context - absorbed into the walls, ceilings and surfaces of a winery.
3. Eventually - long after most wine would hopefully have been drunk - the wine will be attacked by bacteria and will turn into vinegar.
4. The vinegar will itself decompose, releasing carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.5. The cycle starts all over again!
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