Info Mine: The Carbon Cycle

Here is a quick 5-step look at the natural cycle of winemaking (with thanks to David Bird and with distant memories of GCSE science).

1. The leaves of the vine absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. The roots absorb water from the soil. These raw materials are converted into sugars by means of photosynthesis. The sugars are stored in the vine's grapes.

2. At this point the grapes are picked. The sugars are then converted into alcohol by the process of fermentation. Fermentation is kick-started by yeast, which is present in the atmoshere, on the skins of grapes and - in a winemaking context - absorbed into the walls, ceilings and surfaces of a winery.


3. Eventually - long after most wine would hopefully have been drunk - the wine will be attacked by bacteria and will turn into vinegar.
4. The vinegar will itself decompose, releasing carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

5. The cycle starts all over again!

Wines of Chile Syrah & Sparkling Wines Tasting

The purpose of this tasting on Monday was to showcase two up and coming Chilean wine sectors. Syrah is increasingly being touted as Chile's Next Big Thing, especially that coming from more northern regions like Elqui and Limari. Sparkling wine is being produced in increasing volumes, although I have been underwhelmed by Chilean fizz in the past and this tasting didn't change my mind.

The northern Syrahs, though, were lovely. A lot of Chilean Central Valley wines are extremely fruit-driven. Too much so in my opinion, although alcoholic fruit juice appeals to the mass market, which is what Chile until now has concentrated on. Elqui and Limari, however, seem to be producing Syrahs with fruit flavours that, although present in barrel loads, are balanced by the wines' acidity and even have a touch of old world-like austerity to them at times.


The Elqui Valley (above) is Chile's northermost wine producing region and until recently was known more as the home of Pisco than for wine. It is sun-baked semi-desert, being the gateway to the Atacama, and has large day-night temperature variations. The clear, starry nights have made Elqui one of the best places for astronomy and there are several observatories dotted around the valley. Annual rainfall is just 70 mm (compared to over 700 in Bordeaux, for example). The most important moderating climatic influence is the 'Camanchaca Fog' which rises from the river in the mornings, enveloping the vines in a blanket of cool air.

For under a tenner, Mayu's 2006 Reserva was excellent value (Guy Anderson Wines) as was the Falerina 2006 Reserva (Great Western Wine), both from Elqui. Limari seems to be where the larger players have set up - Concha y Toro, Santa Rita and Undurraga all produce good Syrahs for around £10, although rather more commercial in style than those from the Elqui Valley.

Wines of Portugal Tasting

This took place at Lord's Cricket Ground yesterday. I am always pleasantly surprised by Portuguese wines, although they have a tough time in the UK market, especially in the on-trade which often finds it hard to find a home for them. This is probably due in part to our newfound love of varietal labelling - Portugal's myriad indigenous varietals (350 apparently, of which around 50 are in regular use) are not very consumer-friendly.

One producer which is managing to make impressive headway is Casa Santos Lima, a family business from just north of Lisbon. An impressive 95% of production is exported (over 3 million bottles annually). Their Arinto, Syrah and Palha-Canas were particularly good for the money.

Other highlights were:

Luis Soares Duarte Perfil Reserva 2005 - indigenous varietals, ruby coloured with concentrated fruit from low yielding old vines (unrepresented in UK)

Wine&Soul Guru White 2007 - an oaked white, also old vines, with a lively zing to it (Corney & Barrow)

Wine & Joy (Quinta da Falorca) - whole range was good, with particularly well-priced entry-level wines (armit)