Gambero Rosso tasting with Stephen Spurrier

This took place earlier this week as part of Gambero Rosso's 2009 'road show'. 17 wines were chosen from the GR portfolio and Stephen Spurrier spoke about them in an eloquent yet refreshingly down to earth manner.

Spurrier's tasting notes were formulated off the cuff but were impressively concise. I jotted down a few examples, such as "more than a sparkling wine, a wine that happens to sparkle" (Berlucchi Cellarius Rose 2004); a "sun-filled wine" (GIV F. Candida Frascati 2007); "more Chablis than Sancerre" (Sauvignon Zuc di Volpe); and "bramble and hedgerow vigour" (Barbera in general).

Spurrier also alluded to the divide between old and new world producers regarding regions (old world) versus varietals (new) and left little doubt that he is of the old school in this respect - Chablis, not Chardonnay, and Sancerre, not Sauvignon, if you please.

My highlights from the tutored part of the tasting were:

Cavit Altemasi Brut Trento DOC 2002 - bottle-fermented fizz, 90% Chardonnay, fleshy and soft but dry, light sparkle, would be good with food

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2004 - wild violets, long time in wood (large oak casks, Spurrier suggested), with a hint of Burgundian Pinot Noir

Fontanafredda Vigna La Rosa Barolo DOCG 2004 - a great example of a wine with huge natural fruit concentration, from low-yielding vines (NB 2004 was a v good year for Barolos)

Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2001 - classic Amarone - strong, dark, raisiny fruit with a 'sweet' edge

Argentina's U.S. exports on a winning streak

Published on Decanter.com 16 February 2009 - click here to read.

Argentina’s 2008 wine exports to the U.S. increased by 29% in value and 13% in volume on the previous year, making Argentina the only country to significantly increase its American sales during what proved to be a challenging year for the global wine trade.

These figures, from the U.S. Department of Commerce, revealed that by contrast, Australian exports to the U.S. dropped by 10.5% in value and 8% in volume over the same period. Total wine imports by the U.S. stagnated in 2008.

James Forbes, UK Director of Wines of Argentina, paints a similar picture for Argentinian imports in the UK, which have seen 20 months of consecutive growth in both value and volume terms. He also notes that Argentinian wines are being sold increasingly in the on-trade and the specialist wine sector.

This pull to the premium end of the spectrum suits Argentina well for two reasons. Its wine market is predominantly domestic, with only 17% of wine produced being exported. Producers can therefore sell their lower-end wine at home and concentrate on quality in their export products.

Secondly, the Malbec grape is a marketeer’s dream – easy on the palate, easy to pronounce and, despite its French origins, increasingly becoming synonymous with Argentinian winemaking.

Australia Day Tasting

My first trip to the Emirates Stadium, a dramatic setting in which to taste wine whilst watching the groundsmen mow the hallowed turf. There were good 'Spotlight Rooms' focusing on Aromatics, Cab Sauv, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and something called "Alternative Variteals & Blends". My picks (in no particular order) were:

1. Scorpo Pinot Gris 2007, Victoria - vanilla, oak, with a petrolly nose

2. Ten Minutes by Tractor McCutcheon Chardonnay 2006, Victoria - delicate tropical fruit

3. Hollick Wines Hollaia Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Coonawarra SA

4. Domaine A Coal River Valley Pinot Noir 2005, Tasmania

5. Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards Block 6 Shiraz 2006, SA - 114 year-old vines, great spice and pepper